A simple scene found on a Santa Fe side street. Photo ©Lee Anne White
Have you ever visited a place that was love at first sight? The kind of place where the quality of light, color of the soil and distinctive architecture welcomed you with a warm embrace; where the people and their culture opened your eyes to other ways of living; and where the past was present at every turn? The kind of place where the mere mention of its name conjures up a clear image in your mind? Tuscany, Tahiti, the Amazon, Iceland, Marrakech, Provence….
For me, that place is Santa Fe—the heart of northern New Mexico.
The first time I visited New Mexico was in 1989. My youngest brother had just graduated from college and was heading west for adventure. Always game for a road trip, I offered to accompany him as far as Santa Fe. We loaded up his Subaru wagon, rolled down the windows, cranked up the music, and cruised through Georgia, Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the Texas panhandle before reaching New Mexico 1,500 miles later. Long, flat mesas rose up to greet us as we crossed the state line. After a detour off the beaten path, over some rugged terrain and through a few locations not indicated on our map, we made our way to Santa Fe. Instantly, I was smitten. And so was Chris. He found a job in nearby Taos and stayed for a year or two before returning to work in the family business.
I have long credited much of our immediate attraction to New Mexico to the fact that our mother grew up there. Her father began his career with the U.S. Forest Service as a ranger in the Jemez Mountains, which is where she spent her early years. Later, they moved to Santa Fe. We grew up hearing stories about New Mexico and watching 16mm family movies made there, so there were many reasons the terrain felt familiar. Yet others have told me similar stories about their own first visits to Santa Fe—that it just felt like home. And in many cases, they stayed.
San Francisco de Assis Church, Rancho de Taos, New Mexico. Built sometime between the late 1700s and early 1800s, this iconic structure was made famous by artists such as Ansel Adams, Georgia O’Keeffe and Paul Strand. Photo ©Lee Anne White
There are so many reasons to love this region and especially Santa Fe. The big skies, distant views, red earth and clear light are among them. I love the weather—arid, with cool nights even in the heat of summer. Santa Fe is located at 7,000 feet in the High Desert, adjacent to a national forest, so the changes in the seasons can be stunning—especially when the Aspens turn or snow falls. But what most folks notice first and remember most distinctly is the architecture—low-slung, earthen-colored structures with soft contours—whether casitas (small houses), churches, sprawling ranches or public buildings.
These adobe structures are made from soil, water and organic matter such as straw that has been mixed and formed into large bricks, baked in the sun, laid to form thick walls, and then coated in mud. The style has its roots in early Pueblo building methods that were admired and modified by Spanish explorers who lingered in the region, then updated to reflect trending styles as Anglo settlers moved west. Interest in the style was rekindled during the Pueblo Revival Period of the early 1900s and continues today, even as some of the construction methods or materials have changed.
Artist Georgia O’Keeffee purchased a Spanish-Colonial-era house in Abiquiu, NM, in 1945 for its well-irrigated garden. The house, however, was in ruins and had to be restored—a four-year project overseen by her friend Maria Chabot. Photo: ©Lee Anne White
Visiting Santa Fe and northern New Mexico is like stepping back in time, but with all the modern conveniences. Northern New Mexico has been inhabited for thousands of years and the arid climate has helped preserve many ancient structures. One can visit nearby cliff dwellings, Ancient Puebloan ruins, and pueblos that have been continuously inhabited for more than 1,000 years. Santa Fe is home to the country’s oldest public building, as well as the oldest church still holding regular services.
New Mexico has its own cuisine, a rich cultural heritage, and more than 200 art galleries. For me, a trip is never complete without a stop at local photography galleries and PhotoEye Books, breakfast at Café Pasqual’s, and a visit to the Palace of the Governors, where Native American artisans gather to sell their goods beneath a portico overlooking the Plaza. I also try to visit a different museum each trip, as there are excellent history, cultural and art museums to explore.
For these and so many other reasons, I am thrilled to announce that I will be teaching in New Mexico this summer. An Intimate Portrait of Place: Santa Fe and Beyond will be offered July 22-26 at the Santa Fe Workshops. In this workshop, we will step back in time to discover some of northern New Mexico’s Native American, Hispanic and Anglo roots—visiting cultural landscapes and historic sites ranging from ancient ruins and pueblos to historic ranches and churches to the walkable neighborhoods of Santa Fe. Our goal will be to convey a sense of place—the light, landscape, architecture and culture of the region.
Have you been to Santa Fe and northern New Mexico? If so, what were your favorite discoveries? If not, what place do you feel especially drawn to? What calls to you there?
Forked Lightning Ranch near Pecos was built by rodeo promoter Tex Austin in the late 1920s. Photo: ©Lee Anne White
Upcoming Workshops and Online Courses Now Open for Registration.
[click on course titles for more details and registration]
Explorations in Landscape + Place: Photographing Close to Home Six-weeks beginning April 8 online classroom
The Spirit of the Garden June 24-28 | Rockport, ME Maine Media Workshops
An Intimate Portrait of Place: Santa Fe and Beyond July 22-26 | Santa Fe, NM Santa Fe Workshops
An Intimate Portrait of Place: Mid-Coast Maine October 7-11 | Rockport, ME Maine Media Workshops
I agree completely with Kelsi. Obscura and Monroe galleries are superb. Taos Pueblo and Cerrillos are favorite places nearby, but it is difficult to find anywhere in NM that isn't rich in opportunity.
I love, love, love Santa Fe. Have you read Death Comes for the Archbishop by Willa Cather? I think you'd love it. She puts into words so many beautiful ideas about the Southwest.